Many years ago there was a form of acne called detergicans, i.e. caused by the excessive use of soap. Indeed, the fatty acids and some antiseptics found in anti-acne skin cleansers of the time were found to be comedogenic. These active principles and other ingredients of the formula were tested on rabbit ears. And the hypo- or non-comedogenic property of a product, regardless of whether it is a skincare or active dermocosmetic product is still indicated on its label today.
That was in the 1970s. From then on, the dermocosmetics industry began to plan modern syndet cleansers.
Italian dermatologists and acne patients maintain that cleansers have an important complementary role in the management of acne, as demonstrated in a recent research study published by a group of dermatologists of the University of Milan. A few years earlier, the Dermocosmetics division of SIDeMaST, the Italian Society of Medical, Surgical, Cosmetic Dermatology and STDs, had published a series of recommendations on the consistent use of cleansers in all types of acne and particularly on specific active principles known for their anti-acne properties.
The most updated guidelines on acne therapy did not include an assessment of the usefulness and indication of these cleansing products, but their use is very common and validated by daily practice. Dermatologists almost always prescribe a cleanser for acne-prone skin or actual acne. The treatment is more complete when a specific cleansing product is prescribed as well.
But what is required of a face wash as a complement to acne treatment? Oil reduction and/or quantitative/qualitative rebalancing (which also lowers the bacterial load of P.acnes), pore cleansing and facilitating the absorption of active substances applied subsequently, as well as direct anti-inflammatory action. Hence, a face cleanser should serve as a primer and an active product at the same time. And this concept is mostly intended for the face. But we need to distinguish between face and body cleansing!
But managing body acne is a totally different matter. Here, although the properties of a face wash are the same, a more decisive action will be required and thus a product containing non-aggressive salicylic acid for micro-peeling and sebum-modulating zinc, left to act for longer by massaging it on wet skin.
But there are some issues.
Do brief contact with the skin surface and dilution with water make of these products just superficial cleansers for oily skin with excess sebum or do they help treat acne and acne-prone areas? No! The function of emulsifying sebum and dead skin cell debris, i.e. dirt, along with a true keratolytic or corneolytic action, is what they are formulated for.
Hence, mild yet effective surfactants, sebum-dissolving and keratolytic salicylic acid and finally sebum-regulating zinc.
And possibly a scrub effect! Useful more to the body than to the face!
This article has been written by Dr. Alessandrini
