Dyspigmentation, skin physiology, and a novel approach to skin lightening

Abstract

Background: Even facial pigmentation is considered a universal sign of youth and beauty in all cultures and at all ages in both men and women. The recent FDA concern about the safety of topical hydroquinone has provided the impetus for research into new pigment lightening alternatives in the cosmetic OTC market.

Aim: This research examined a novel hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, ellagic acid, yeast extract, and salicylic acid formulation applied twice daily compared to the standard prescription combination of 4% hydroquinone cream and 0.025% tretinoin cream applied nightly.

Method: This single-center investigator-blinded 12 week study enrolled 82 subjects (7 male, 75 female) ages 25–60 years divided into 2 balanced groups of 41 subjects each with one group using a novel hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, ellagic acid, yeast extract, and salicylic acid formulation applied twice daily compared to the standard prescription combination of 4% hydroquinone cream and 0.025% tretinoin cream applied nightly.

Results: Significant tolerability issues arose with the prescription combinations that were not seen with the cosmetic formulation. In terms of ability to even skin tone, decrease spot intensity, decrease spot size, and improve overall pigmentation, both products demonstrated parity. Conclusion This research demonstrated the value of cosmetic formulations as part of a treatment regimen for pigmentation issues.

Keywords: dyspigmentation, ellagic acid, skin lightening.

Zoe Draelos, MD ; Amanda Dahl, BS ; Margarita Yatskayer, MS ; Nannan Chen, PhD ; Yevgeniy Krol, BS ; Christian Oresajo, PhD.