Evaluating the Effect of Fresh and Aged Antioxidant Formulations in Skin Protection Against UV Damage

ABSTRACT

Background: his 2- phase ex-vivo study, evaluating the efficacy of fresh and aged (6, 12, and 36 month) CEF formulations in skin protection against UV damage, was led by Prof Giuseppe Valacchi and his team at NC State.

Methods: 

Phase 1:

• CEF formulations at 0, 6, 12, and 36 months used for pre-treatment daily with UV exposure at doses of 100, 200, and 400 mJ/cm2 after 2 hours over 4 days.
• Biomarkers assessed: 4-HNE, 8-OHdG (oxidative/skin DNA damage), Collagen1, Filaggrin (skin structure), and IL-8, Nrf2 (inflammatory and defensive response)

Phase 2 :

• Alternatively, to mimic consumer usage, another experiment was conducted using fresh, closed CEF (0 month) and a fresh CEF, opened daily over a period of 6 months. Same UV dose exposure and protocol as Phase 1.

Results: 

• Pre-treatment with CEF, particularly in its younger formulations (0-, 6, and 12-month-old), significantly reduced the damaging effect of UV. Additionally, all CEF formulations effectively mitigated UV-induced damage across all doses.
• Closed and opened CEF formulations had similar defensive effects on cutaneous structure with no significant difference in filaggrin and collagen-1 between cutaneous biopsies when pre-treated formula   

Conclusion: "Findings demonstrate that the antioxidant combination of 15% L- ascorbic acid, 1% tocopherol, and 0.5% ferulic acid remains stable for up to 36 months and provides proven protection against UV-induced oxidative damage, helping preserve collagen and filaggrin while reducing DNA oxidation and inflammation."   

doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040166

by John Ivarsson, Patricia Brieva, Hina Choudhary and Giuseppe Valacchi